Unlike Ruffin’s Brut, the Extra Brut is always made from a single year, although this isn’t stated on the label. made of 80% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir, and fermented and aged for roughly six months in an old cask made of acacia wood. It’s dosed at 4 grams per liter, which I find to result in an excellent balance, as the natural ripeness of the fruit gives this plenty of depth, filling the palate with its citrus and apple aromas. It’s true that the wood signature here is completely different from those of Ruffin’s champagnes made in oak: compared to the Brut, this isn’t quite as fine in texture, and while the wood is slightly less pronounced, it feels somehow sauvage in tone, retaining a slightly untamed demeanor about it. It’s a fascinating wine—besides being delicious to drink, it’s an intriguing opportunity for education, as I don’t know of any other champagnes made entirely in acacia. Rated 94/100 by La Revue du Vin de France
